Updated 2026-06-02 · Reviewed by Jose A. Vital, Owner & Master Plumber
Step 1: Check for Power First
Before assuming the disposal is broken, verify it is getting power. This sounds obvious, but it is the cause of a surprising number of service calls.
- Press the reset button on the bottom of the unit (facing down, under the sink). It is a small red or black button. If it was tripped, press it firmly until you feel it click in.
- Check your electrical panel for a tripped breaker labeled "disposal" or "kitchen." Reset it if needed.
- Check under the sink for a switched outlet — some disposals plug into an outlet controlled by the wall switch. Make sure the outlet itself has power by testing it with another small appliance.
If the disposal powers on and runs normally after these steps, you are done. If it hums, sparks, or does nothing, continue below.
Symptom: The Disposal Hums but Does Not Grind
This is the most common disposal failure. The motor has power and is trying to spin, but the grinding plate (the impeller) is jammed on something — usually a fruit pit, a piece of bone, silverware, or built-up hardened food debris.
How to Clear a Jammed Disposal
- Turn off the wall switch and unplug the disposal or flip its circuit breaker. Never reach into the grinding chamber while it has power.
- Find the hex wrench (Allen key) that came with your disposal — usually 1/4 inch. Most disposals ship with one taped to the side of the unit. If yours is gone, a 1/4-inch hex key from a hardware store works.
- Insert the hex key into the port on the very bottom center of the disposal unit — directly below the sink. This connects directly to the motor shaft.
- Work the key back and forth — not just one direction — until the plate rotates freely in both directions.
- Look inside the grinding chamber with a flashlight and use tongs or pliers (never your hand) to remove any visible debris.
- Press the reset button, restore power, run cold water, and test.
Symptom: No Sound at All (No Hum)
If pressing the switch produces nothing — no hum, no click, nothing — the most likely causes are:
- A tripped reset button (the thermal overload protection). Press it and test again.
- A tripped circuit breaker in the panel.
- A faulty wall switch — test by listening for a click when you flip it.
- A loose electrical connection under the sink.
- A failed motor — if the unit is old and all other causes are ruled out, the motor has burned out.
Symptom: Disposal Leaking
Where the leak is coming from determines whether it is fixable:
- Leak at the top (where it meets the sink flange): The mounting flange has worked loose or the putty seal has deteriorated. This is repairable — tightening the mounting hardware or re-seating with plumber's putty typically fixes it.
- Leak at the side (where the dishwasher drain hose connects): The clamp is loose or the fitting is cracked. Tightening the hose clamp or replacing the hose often resolves it.
- Leak from the bottom of the unit: An internal seal has failed. This is not a repairable component — replacement of the disposal is the standard recommendation.
Symptom: Disposal Works but Drains Slowly
A disposal that grinds but does not drain properly points to a downstream clog — usually grease or accumulated food debris in the drain line. The disposal itself is fine; the pipe it drains into is partially blocked.
Try running hot water down the drain for several minutes. If that does not clear it, a drain snake or hydro-jet service will reach the clog further down the line.
Repair or Replace?
If your disposal is under 5 years old, repairing a single issue makes sense. If it is 10+ years old and has had multiple problems, replacement is usually more cost-effective than chasing failures. A new mid-grade disposal from a brand like InSinkErator or Badger typically runs $150 to $400 for the unit, with professional installation adding $100 to $200.
When to Call a Plumber for Garbage Disposal Repair
- You have worked through all the steps above and the disposal still does not function properly.
- The unit is leaking from the bottom (replacement needed).
- The drain line is backing up and snaking has not resolved it.
- You want a new disposal installed and are not comfortable with the electrical and plumbing connections.
Alberto Plumbing handles garbage disposal repair and replacement in Pflugerville, Round Rock, Austin, and Hutto. Call (512) 429-6933 — Jose A. Vital (TX Master Plumber M-39647) carries common disposal units on the truck for same-day installation.
Frequently asked questions
A humming disposal that does not spin has a jammed impeller. The motor is getting power but the grinding plate is stuck. Turn off the disposal, insert the hex wrench into the port on the bottom of the unit, and manually work the plate back and forth to free the jam. Then press the reset button.
The reset button is a small red or black button on the underside of the disposal unit, facing down toward the floor under your sink. If the motor overheated or tripped, pressing this button restores power to the unit. If it pops out again immediately, the jam has not been cleared or the motor has a fault.
Food debris, biofilm, and grease accumulate on the underside of the splash guard (the rubber flap at the top of the disposal) and inside the grinding chamber. The most effective way to clean it is to lift and scrub under the splash guard with a brush and dish soap, then grind ice cubes and citrus peels through the unit.
No. Avoid fibrous foods (celery, artichoke leaves, onion skins), starchy foods (potato peels, pasta, rice), hard items (fruit pits, bones, shells), and grease or oil. These either jam the impellers, wrap around the grinder, or solidify in your drain line downstream of the disposal.
It depends on where it is leaking. A leak at the flange (the top where it connects to the sink) or at the dishwasher connection can usually be repaired. A leak from the bottom of the unit itself usually means an internal seal has failed — at that point, replacement is almost always more cost-effective than repair, especially if the unit is more than 5 years old.
Most disposals last 8 to 15 years. InSinkErator and Moen are common brands with good parts availability. If yours is over 10 years old and has had multiple issues, replacement rather than repair is usually the right call.